We've now been in Phnom Penh for two days and are about to move on tomorrow to Siem Reap - the base for seeing the Ankhor temples.

We've had a good time in Phnom Penh so far, though it's been slightly marred by Hanna's feeling a bit ill. In fact, she's at the guesthouse now, since she thought coming out might make her headache worse. Slightly worryingly, she's also had a bit of a fever on two separate occasions, so we think we'll try to get to a hospital just to make sure it's not malaria or anything else nasty. Of course, throughout most of Cambodia it's more of a danger going to hospital than not, since cleanliness standards are pretty low - the Rough Guide says don't unless it's an emergency and advises going to Bangkok instead, but it also says there's a very good international one in Siem Reap.

We had a very strange and very exciting surprise on our way from Kompong Cham to here. Having met by a strange coincidence with Carolyn Koussa (of the Rennaisance Singers, for those who don't know her) in Singapore and parted to go on wildly different tours of Southeast Asia, we were amazed to find her hanging out of the window of a bus that we thought we were about to get on in Kompong Cham, a pretty out-of-the-way town in eastern Cambodia! This made it a lot easier for us to establish that this in fact wasn't the bus we wanted after all and we had a short conversation through the open window until the bus left. She was heading in the opposite direction, but we might end up crossing paths again soon.

We've had a good time here, seeing quite a number of Phnom Penh's big sights. We decided in an act of defiance not to go to the Royal Palace, somewhere everyone goes, allowing them to charge to ludicrous entrance fee they do. We did, however, spend this morning in the National Museum, which was very interesting. Yesterday, we went to Tuol Sleng, the former high school that was used by the Khmer Rouge regime as a horific prison and torture centre for hundreds of thousands of victims, and which is now a museum. The museum was extremely informative and, in several parts in particular, shed some light on the motivations of the perpetrators, though no-one really seems to understand this yet. Particularly interesting was the exhibition by Gunnar Bergström, who at the time supported the regime and was one of the few westerners who were able to visit it, on a very staged tour.

We're rather worried about how our tight budget will survive Siem Reap, where a day's pass to see the temples exceeds our entire day's budget! Of course, you can't really come to Cambodia and not visit Ankhor Wat, which is why they can charge so much, so we're just relying on what money we've saved so far and living very cheaply in other respects.